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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.